Category: Journals

Scouts

On September 18, 2022

9/18/2022 –

(1165.1)(14.4) Cross Trails Hostel

Today

Good tip from Rerun: Wash your Tyvek. It removes some of the crackle and stiffness.

The state camping area last night was nice, though noisy. A group of 30 scouts, plus leaders, camped there. Teenagers will be loud and obnoxious.

As I was making dinner, tired from a long day, a 14-year-old scout walked over, said hi, sat down without introducing himself or asking if I’d mind if he joined me, then began firing off questions about every piece of gear I had on the picnic table as though I was his scout master.

“I see you’re using fire steel instead of a lighter. Why?“

I explained that fire steel lit my stove just as well as a lighter, works reliably in freezing weather (unlike a lighter), and never runs out of fuel.

“Hmmm. What kind of stove is that?” (I told him.)

Eventually he broadened the scope of his queries, “What have you learned in life? I like picking the minds of old people. How old are you?“

I chuckled out loud. “I like your boldness. The answer to your second question is 66. You’ll need to be more specific with your first question. And by the way, what is your name?“

“Luke. What’s yours?”

“I’ll give you my trail name. It’s Alpine. Thru-hikers use trail names instead of real names. Most hikers get a trail name.“

“Why?”

I explained why. Luke often replied to my answer with “Hmmm.” He’d pause, look into the distance for inspiration until the next question came to mind, then fire away. The question might be on any topic.

“How do I reduce my pack weight?”

“How much does it weigh now?”

“I don’t know.”

“Well, that’s your starting point. Weigh everything in your pack. Then look for items that are as good or better that weigh significantly less. I’d start with your pack, tent, and sleep system (sleeping bag and mattress). Those are the heaviest gear hikers carry. Swapping one of those out is your quickest way to reduce weight.”

“Hmmm.”

And so the conversation went. Until Luke flitted off to fulfill responsibilities within his troop. Then he’d return for more.

Fellow SOBOs Blind and Rerun were also at the camp. Blind walked a half mile to order and wait for pizza where it could be delivered (his dinner). Rerun, true to character, with his very extroverted and chatty personality, talked to nearly everyone in camp. Later that evening I saw him addressing half the Boy Scout troop who huddled near him. Something about porcupines.

The scouts were boisterous well after dark. Eventually Rerun shouted from his tent “Hiker midnight! Hey, it’s hiker midnight!” That caught the attention of the scout leaders who quickly quieted the boys.

I stopped short of Harper’s Ferry at a Hostel because I have to wait until Monday to get my Mail Drop anyway. This was the closest place to town I saw.

Hot Dog! Ice Cream!

By alpineontrail

On August 24, 2022

In Journals

8/24/2022 –

Wawayanda Shelter (828.8)(19.5)

The site by the pond turned out to be a pleasant place to sleep. I heard one animal passing by, something small.

I went through my full morning routine. Pack up. Eat breakfast. Camel up (load up on water). Lather on insect repellent. Morning constitutional. Left camp about 7:30 AM.

Had originally hoped to make up miles today. Unfortunately, New York is living up to its rated-8 difficulty rating. Lots of rocks which are sometimes very tricky to negotiate safely. That slows the pace to 1 mile an hour. [Maine is rated 10, New Hampshire 9.]

I am dwelling on, and still mourning the separation on the trail between me and my traveling companions. I want a 20- or 30- or 40-year-old body back—in or near the prime of life. I want my Alpine body that I had in Colorado, that could more than keep up with any of my climbing companions. I could run marathons. But I’ve got my 65-year-old body. And I knew going into this, that would the challenge. Could I do the AT in a 65-year -old body? Could I do it SOBO?

I am mourning reality. That my 65 year-old body falls behind younger bodies. I’m mourning goodbyes to friends and potential friends who I cannot keep pace with. And perhaps, I am mourning a goodbye to my younger self.

Stopped at the Top Dog hot dog stand. Had two foot-long‘s with cheese, bag of potato chips, and a Coke. Then walked over to the Bellvale Farm Creamery. Had my first banana split in decades, three scoops of ice cream, nuts, whip cream, and three cherries. After polishing those off, I thought, “that was a tasty snack. Now what?“

A woman holding a double-scoop cone saw me preparing my pack. She approached and asked, “Is there a hiking trail nearby?”

“Yes there is,” I replied. “The Appalachian Trail is just over that way,” I pointed.

“Out in those woods? The Appalachian Trail?”

“Yes.”

“Where does it go?”

“If you walked from here to the trail and turned left, you could walk to Maine. If you turned right, you could walk to Georgia. I’ve come from Maine.”

“Wow! Did you sleep in the woods?”

“Yes. It feels pretty comfortable after a while.”

“Are you going all the way to Georgia?”

“That’s the plan.”

“Well, enjoy your your hike.” She scurried off and repeated everything I told her to her husband. Her husband seemed much more interested in finishing his ice cream than hearing about a hiking trail.

New York ended with some rocky terrain. About 3 miles from the New Jersey—New York border, I passed a NOBO with a sour expression on his face. His passing comment was, “ I’ve only walked a handful of miles in this state. I already hate New York.“

There were three things I didn’t like about New York but I doubt he was referring to those (too few white blazes, shelters that lacked privies, and?). I believe he was referring to the trail that undulated up and down rock along a ridge for miles. It did get old. First, rock is hard on the feet. Secondly, we were exposed to the sun which makes the hiking hot. And finally, the ups and downs, and sometimes tricky terrain, made the going slow. I didn’t want to tell the Snowbell dad he had a lot more about to come. I chuckled, then simply said, “I hope it improves for you.”

Crossed the New York – New Jersey border today. Goodbye New York. Hello New Jersey.

Saw a group of 10 wild turkeys on the trail. Unfortunately, they scurried into the forest before I could video them.

A long hiking day. I’m proud to have done over 19 miles. Arrived at the shelter about 7:45pm, at dusk. Gnarly, Lever, and Gnarly’s mom were there also.

Lemon Squeezer—800 Miles

By alpineontrail

On August 23, 2022

In Journals

8/23/2022 –

Stealth camped beside Little Dam Lake (809.3)(12.3)

A damp night in the tent last night. We all got various stages of wet from yesterday’s rain. my pants, underwear, and shirt were either sweat wet or rain wet or both. I decided to try the old Colorado trick of going to bed wearing my wet clothing. When the trick works, by morning clothes are dry. Didn’t work here in the more humid Northeast. My clothes were just a little less wet.

I’ve made it nearly 800 miles with one shirt, one pair of underwear, and one pair of shorts. But our days had have been mostly dry. Last night convinced me to at least try carrying a dedicated dry sleep shirt, sleep pants, and a second pair of underwear.

Today’s planned journey is a challenge. The goal is 19 miles. The reason is that you must either go long or quite short to reach a designated camp.

I know that consecutive long days will wear this older body down. The youngsters can recover far quicker, and do longer miles. Biodiesel was saying that, while he has done some 25 mile days, they get old. All you do is hike all day. There’s no personal time at camp. We need to go at a sustainable pace, both mentally and physically. For me, I think in this area at least, that range is between 14 and 20 miles with the high-end being a rare exception. Hopefully as the terrain gets smoother, if it ever does, the mileage can expand a bit. If not that’s OK.

Woke having to poop urgently. So at 5:40 AM, still dark, I got out of the tent and dug a cat hole. the Rocky New York soil makes digging a cat hole difficult. A bit irked that NY doesn’t build privies beside many shelters. There will be a lot of poorly dug cat holes, with all the undesirable side effects, until they do.

Felt dehydrated until we found water 2 miles beyond the shelter. Cameled up a liter, then loaded the bottle and bladder with water.

Stopped at the lake which was 4 miles from the shelter. Because I was dehydrated this morning, I didn’t poop everything out, so I had to go again. Plus I had to set up a Mail drop with Lissa. Various other tasks took some time as well. It was an essential to stop, but it made completing the 19 mile goal for today very difficult.

New York has become more rocky, and therefore miles come more slowly.

Passed the 800 mile mark today.

Reached the Lemon squeezer. Just before the Lemon squeezer, the trail divided into a blue blaze titled “the easy way“ and the AT. From the SOBO side the Lemon Squeezer appeared to be a Cliff. I couldn’t see enough in order to know where to place my hands and feet to descend. So I descended the blue blaze.

Walked back to the bottom of the lemon squeezer. From the NOBO side, the route was easy. I ascended NOBO. Since no one was with me, and the descent still looked dicey SOBO, I decided not to descend SOBO.

The New York rocks, and not eating enough, left me feeling very fatigued early in the afternoon. I realized I wasn’t going to make the 19 miles. Verydisappointing, since I’d fall behind the new group I’d been traveling with. More than disappointing, I grieved. I wanted to spend one more night with Biodiesel, Photo Op, and Big Cat, but couldn’t. I wanted to keep hanging with some people who I want to get to know better, who had started to become traveling companions. Ducky and Gravy from Canada. Recent engineering graduates. Homework from North Carolina. EC, teacher in the Durham area. And Dunk, age 58, new retiree, and former Cyber Security Director at his firm. Not only did I want to get to know them better, there’s the companionship at the shelter. And typically, plans are made better together than individually. You have lots of eyes able to read FarOut comments and skimming through the AWOL guide. We can discuss what’s ahead and raise ideas that others weren’t aware of. A restroom shortly off trail. A deli. A movie theater drive-in in Warwick that’s free, not only for the camping but the movie itself. There are lots of benefits to traveling with others. They can help lift your spirits if you’re down. And right now, they are.

I hated pulling up short but had no choice. I realized I can’t do that kind of mileage unless I’m eating and drinking enough every day.

I camped in an undesignated area about 12 miles out. That allowed me to eat a real dinner, unlike last night. The campsite was near a pond. There was water.

My dehydration yesterday and partly today took a toll. Every move last night felt as though I might cramp. Even today in bed, I got a hand cramp. The bowels don’t clear the way they should. So lack of water and food has a snowball effect on health and mileage. I’m feeling it. I need, somehow, to get back on track.

Trail Side Zoo

By alpineontrail

On August 22, 2022

In Journals

8/22/2022

William Brien Memorial Shelter (796.9)(12.3)

Crossed the Hudson River on the Bear Mountain Bridge.

Picked up mail drop at the Fort Montgomery PO. Thanks Lu, everything was perfect. Included a drawing from Ames, and birthday cards from Lu, Shelly and Lynn.

Thru-Hikers have free access to walk through the Trail Side Zoo when the zoo is open. Lots of exhibits—could spend lots of time there.

Really enjoyed the AT exhibit leading into the ascent of Bear Mountain. Showed a lot about how trails and structure on trails are made (eg. steps, bog bridges, etc.). The trail crew also did a great job of creating the trail up and down Bear Mountain. The mountain ascends a thousand feet, but the grade and steps allows one to ascend or descend more easily. Even in rain.

It rained, at times fairly hard, for about half the ascent of Bear Mountain.

Shirt was already sweaty, so it got rain damp, as well as my pants and underwear. Trail runners and socks were soaked.

Met Dunk, a 58-year-old SOBO. We both decided to take the official route which crosses the Palisades Interstate Parkway (rather than the detour). Cars come fast, but patience makes crossing safe.

While setting up inside my tent, I heard “Hey Alpine, come outside!”

“Why?” I asked.

“Because it’s Biodiesel and I want to see you!”

Was great seeing Biodiesel, as well as Photo Op and Big Cat. They were moving down trail after a double zero in NYC.

Kennebec Ferry

By alpineontrail

On June 23, 2022

In Journals

6/23/2022 –

West Carry Pond Lean-to (165.2)

My yellow air mattress is blood speckled from mosquito bites and minor scrapes.

We camped beside the highway through Caratunk, a thoroughfare for 18 wheelers racing past all the night. Not our typical Wilderness ambiance, but convenient for getting to the ferry 0.3 miles away. Hikers are not permitted to camp near the river.

OB and I arrived at the ferry site very early. I cooked breakfast there. We expect a long SOBO queue waiting for a ride across today, 12 or more, and those are only the ones I know of. 2 hikers are ferried per crossing. Ferry hours are restricted to 9-11am.

Some impatient hikers have attempted to wade or swim the Kennebec. This usually proves extremely strenuous or disastrous. Dam releases unexpectedly which accelerates the current and make already cold water frigid.

OB and I were first across. The shuttle took 5 to 10 minutes. I was assigned the job of paddling in front. We waited for others in our tramily.

We agreed to stick together in pairs or groups in goshawk territory. Subsonic took point. He waited for nearly everyone to catch up, then our group of 8 to 10 marched through the goshawks nesting area. Subsonic thought he saw the hawk glide through the woods shortly after a an unmarked Brook Crossing near the nearest lean-to. Shortly after that we saw a sign facing toward NOBO hikers warning of an attacking bird in the area. Thankfully the goshawk left our large group alone.

We heard later that Huggy, hiking alone, was attacked by the goshawk. So far as we know he is OK.

Some sad news this morning. Real Bill is getting off the trail. He overextended his knee, and is going home to try to rehabilitate. Said he may meet us after the Whites.

Fairly easy 14 mile day to West Carry Pond Lean-to.

Mt. Katahdin

By alpineontrail

On June 9, 2022

In Journals

6/9/2022 – Mt. Katahdin: Northernmost Terminus, Appalachian Trail

Start camp: Katahdin Stream Campground (5.2)

Final camp: Same

Miles Today: 10.4

Miles SOBO: 5.2

Humble yourselves, therefore, under the mighty hand of God so that at the proper time he may exalt you, casting all your anxieties on him, because he cares for you (1 Pt 5:6-7)

Woke several times last night anticipating today’s attempt at Mount Katahdin. Eventually rose from bed at 4:30 AM.

Apparently I wasn’t the only one who couldn’t sleep. Others were also up shortly after me. We ready our gear together. The shuttle left at 6 AM for Baxter state park.

The drive through Baxter state park was beautiful. The park is dedicated to recreation second, wilderness first. There are no permanent structures in Baxter state park. It’s as close to wild as a State Park gets.

Most people borrowed a small pack available at the ranger station, including me. We loaded just enough to climb the mountain. Headlamp is mandatory, all other gear and food or discretionary. Everyone had to sign in with the Ranger, proving that they had a reservation.

Palette and I agreed to team up. We were a compatible pair. Our pace was the same, and I think we enjoyed the conversation on the way up.

With yesterday’s high winds and heavy rains, there was a lot of water flowing down the trail. However, today’s weather was better than predicted. There was no rain in the morning. Skies were mostly cloudy with hints of blue and sun in the distance. The hunt trail started gradually uphill, but soon became quite rooty and rocky. Another hiker, Huggy, joined us.

The trail steep and significantly and became a steep rock scramble and parts.

Eventually we climbed the ridge to a spectacular view.

In places the white blazes were hard to find. Finally we reached a plateau of sorts from which we could see Katahdin summit in the distance about a mile to a mile and a half away. We reached the summit about noon.

Palette and Huggy sat near the sign to rest and eat. I walked over to the Baxter Peak Cairn to tap the true Summit. I placed my Palm Against the Cairn bowed my head and gave thanks.

After taking pictures, clouds began shrouding the summit. We hustled back down the shelf. A light rain wet the rock. Our steep descent became slick and required 100% focus not to slip. The wind kicked in, cooling fingers. We were able to descend without incident.

We returned wet but with a great elation at summiting Katahdin.

Subsonic, from Kentucky, hosted the six hikers who attempted today’s summit. He built a campfire at his campsite and we sat and chatted and warmed ourselves next to the fire. I am enjoying the people I’m hiking with, and look forward to getting to know them better and others. Hikers I met or hiked with today include Reboot, Subsonic, Photo Op, Palette, and Huggy.

Sleepy mainly, but a very good day. A very for good first day on trail.

We’ve officially begun our through hike.

Day before Katahdin attempt

By alpineontrail

On June 8, 2022

In Journals

6/8/2022 – Appalachian Trail Lodge

It’s raining. And windy.

Numerous hikers headed for Katahdin this morning, waking at 5 AM and shuttling to Baxter State Park at 6 AM. A miserable day to climb.

Met Bandit from Germany this morning and conversed over coffee. Bandit completed the AT in 101 days (very fast!) after starting in late February. He is staying at the Appalachian Trail Lodge awaiting his flight back today to Germany. His feet are still sore a week and a half after finishing. Of course I asked him many questions, about the White Mountains, about Maine, about insects, etc. He usually prefaced answers with, “I don’t want to scare you . . .”

HOW (Hiker On Wheels) from north England stopped in to climb Katahdin, then prepared his bike for a 65 mile ride in the rain. I said “Wow”. He said, No big deal”. Said he wanted to bike into Manhattan. I told him about Susie and Bruce’s recent trip across New York State.

Pre-climb lunch: Pizza at Angelo’s. It smelled so good. I was hungry. Yesterday after 5 AM I’d eaten only a Wendy’s hamburger. However, the taste didn’t live up to the smell. Their House Special was on par with a frozen tombstone pizza briefly heated. Nevertheless, I ate the whole thing knowing this would be my only meal of the day.

The owner began talking weather with another customer. Supposed to rain through Wednesday next week he said. Today is Wednesday that meant a week straight. Must be sunny somewhere in the world he said.

Two elderly and somewhat confused women took a seat in the booth next to me. They ordered drinks and pizzas not on the menu from the owner. They asked the owner “where is the mall? “There is no mall” he replied. “I used to live here in 1971 she said. “Well it’s long gone” he said. After he left, One woman turned to me and asked what street is this? I’m new to this town – don’t know I replied, thinking that if I wasn’t new to this town, you wouldn’t find me in this restaurant. As I pulled out my credit card to pay the bill, the owner asked, how was everything? I felt like the mom in The movie elf, after elf served spaghetti he made then poured maple syrup all over it and asked how is it? “Yum I replied.

The butterflies are beginning to flutter in my tummy.s

Met Happy. She was shuttled from 45 miles into the 100 mile wilderness. She under-estimated her food and rationed but ran way too low on energy. Fortunately for her, another pair had stopped to call for a rescue. The father’s back hurt and he knew it wouldn’t get better. She approached them, and scored a ride into Millinocket. Happy said the streams are flowing. Someone said, it’s not too bad, only knee deep. Happy stands maybe 4‘10“. Their knee deep was her thigh deep. She said the 100 mile wilderness was rough and advised taking it slowly and carefully. She also said it was beautiful.

Fitbit taught the hiker workshop. Very helpful. I Recorded much of it. Gear shakedown went well.

I’ve been scatterbrained. Forgot to pack half my breakfasts (purchased meals at gear shop). Very nearly forgot to buy fuel canisters.

Have taken care of final preparations (I hope). Set up food drop. Reorganized gear to slack pack Katahdin.

No one takes Katahdin lightly. Even those who have climbed it multiple times. It’s a hard day.

Cody (an employee of ATL) said if you can summit Katahdin and get to Monson then you’re in a good position. The trail won’t throw anything at you that you haven’t seen. The rest is mental.

Things are about to get very real very soon.

(Update – Conditions we’re terrible on Katahdin today. Very low visibility and high winds above tree-line. Only 2 of 9 submitted. Many unexpectedly returned to the ATL – pretty soaked.

They were saying conditions may be as bad or worse tomorrow.)

Charlotte, NC to Millinocket, ME

By alpineontrail

On June 7, 2022

In Journals

6/7/2022 –

Rose at 3:15am, mind swirling with last minute preparations.

My wife was already up at 4:45am when I checked on her. Left close to planned time of 5am for the airport.

We parked. My wife entered the terminal with me – and good thing! Lines for check-in were extremely long, weaving the length of the floor. Extremely crowded! Lissa helped me check in, then navigated us to the long (but much shorter) TSA PreCheck line. Thanks Lu – you saved the day!

Both Lu and I had worked recent days relentlessly to finish that, for me, the reality of this moment hadn’t set in until Lu had to step out of line and watch. Then the tears welled.

No one could know for sure how long this adventure might last, but if all went well we knew it might last 6 months. That’s a long time to be away from those you love. Life would be very different in nearly every way. For both of us.

I spent most of my flight time refining notes that I’ll need for the journey. Especially “my Why”.

Walked about a mile with what is likely the heaviest pack I’ll carry in the next six months from the airport to the Concord Coach Lines bus station. Saw a couple of women carrying packs who appeared likely headed to the AT. The young man behind the counter asked as I ordered a bus ticket to Medway, “You doing the 100-Mile Wilderness or attempting the whole trail?” Guess folks like me, who buy a ride to Medway, are usually headed to the AT.

Bus ticket to Millinocket and the AT Trail Lodge

I somehow fit most contents in my bulky bag into my pack, including 10 days of food. Introduced myself to the two women (Tater Tot and Palette). Indeed they were headed to the AT, and to the Appalachian Trail Lodge. Palette was signed up for the Super SOBO Special and scheduled to start on June 9th ( my start date). Tater Tot was scheduled to start tomorrow. We talked about the rain expected on summit day, and how to decide whether to go for it or wait a day.

Folks trickled in during the afternoon also headed to Medway. Jesse planned to start a SOBO hike when the weather cleared – in the meantime he’d wait in Millinocket (the closest town to Baxter State Park). This was Bill’s 4th thru-hike attempt of the AT (with one success). He climbed Katahdin the prior three times but said weather made all the difference in terms of success and difficulty. Spoke highly of the AT Lodge.

Altogether 11 assembled for the Medway bus; all were also heading to the AT Lodge. Bill and Reboot had completed thru-hikes before. I asked why again. Reboot is obsessed with the trail and hikes each year. She owns Laughing Heart Hostel in Hot Springs, NC. Better is very sight challenged – sees maybe 10 feet tops. How he’ll climb Katahdin, much less pull off a thru-hike I can’t imagine, but he seems determined. We had a good discussion in the bus station.

Colin and Jack are climbing tomorrow. Rain is predicted. I asked how they felt about it. Jack was silent. Colin laughed.