Month: June 2022

Kennebec Ferry

On June 23, 2022

6/23/2022 –

West Carry Pond Lean-to (165.2)

My yellow air mattress is blood speckled from mosquito bites and minor scrapes.

We camped beside the highway through Caratunk, a thoroughfare for 18 wheelers racing past all the night. Not our typical Wilderness ambiance, but convenient for getting to the ferry 0.3 miles away. Hikers are not permitted to camp near the river.

OB and I arrived at the ferry site very early. I cooked breakfast there. We expect a long SOBO queue waiting for a ride across today, 12 or more, and those are only the ones I know of. 2 hikers are ferried per crossing. Ferry hours are restricted to 9-11am.

Some impatient hikers have attempted to wade or swim the Kennebec. This usually proves extremely strenuous or disastrous. Dam releases unexpectedly which accelerates the current and make already cold water frigid.

OB and I were first across. The shuttle took 5 to 10 minutes. I was assigned the job of paddling in front. We waited for others in our tramily.

We agreed to stick together in pairs or groups in goshawk territory. Subsonic took point. He waited for nearly everyone to catch up, then our group of 8 to 10 marched through the goshawks nesting area. Subsonic thought he saw the hawk glide through the woods shortly after a an unmarked Brook Crossing near the nearest lean-to. Shortly after that we saw a sign facing toward NOBO hikers warning of an attacking bird in the area. Thankfully the goshawk left our large group alone.

We heard later that Huggy, hiking alone, was attacked by the goshawk. So far as we know he is OK.

Some sad news this morning. Real Bill is getting off the trail. He overextended his knee, and is going home to try to rehabilitate. Said he may meet us after the Whites.

Fairly easy 14 mile day to West Carry Pond Lean-to.

Mt. Katahdin

By alpineontrail

On June 9, 2022

In Journals

6/9/2022 – Mt. Katahdin: Northernmost Terminus, Appalachian Trail

Start camp: Katahdin Stream Campground (5.2)

Final camp: Same

Miles Today: 10.4

Miles SOBO: 5.2

Humble yourselves, therefore, under the mighty hand of God so that at the proper time he may exalt you, casting all your anxieties on him, because he cares for you (1 Pt 5:6-7)

Woke several times last night anticipating today’s attempt at Mount Katahdin. Eventually rose from bed at 4:30 AM.

Apparently I wasn’t the only one who couldn’t sleep. Others were also up shortly after me. We ready our gear together. The shuttle left at 6 AM for Baxter state park.

The drive through Baxter state park was beautiful. The park is dedicated to recreation second, wilderness first. There are no permanent structures in Baxter state park. It’s as close to wild as a State Park gets.

Most people borrowed a small pack available at the ranger station, including me. We loaded just enough to climb the mountain. Headlamp is mandatory, all other gear and food or discretionary. Everyone had to sign in with the Ranger, proving that they had a reservation.

Palette and I agreed to team up. We were a compatible pair. Our pace was the same, and I think we enjoyed the conversation on the way up.

With yesterday’s high winds and heavy rains, there was a lot of water flowing down the trail. However, today’s weather was better than predicted. There was no rain in the morning. Skies were mostly cloudy with hints of blue and sun in the distance. The hunt trail started gradually uphill, but soon became quite rooty and rocky. Another hiker, Huggy, joined us.

The trail steep and significantly and became a steep rock scramble and parts.

Eventually we climbed the ridge to a spectacular view.

In places the white blazes were hard to find. Finally we reached a plateau of sorts from which we could see Katahdin summit in the distance about a mile to a mile and a half away. We reached the summit about noon.

Palette and Huggy sat near the sign to rest and eat. I walked over to the Baxter Peak Cairn to tap the true Summit. I placed my Palm Against the Cairn bowed my head and gave thanks.

After taking pictures, clouds began shrouding the summit. We hustled back down the shelf. A light rain wet the rock. Our steep descent became slick and required 100% focus not to slip. The wind kicked in, cooling fingers. We were able to descend without incident.

We returned wet but with a great elation at summiting Katahdin.

Subsonic, from Kentucky, hosted the six hikers who attempted today’s summit. He built a campfire at his campsite and we sat and chatted and warmed ourselves next to the fire. I am enjoying the people I’m hiking with, and look forward to getting to know them better and others. Hikers I met or hiked with today include Reboot, Subsonic, Photo Op, Palette, and Huggy.

Sleepy mainly, but a very good day. A very for good first day on trail.

We’ve officially begun our through hike.

Day before Katahdin attempt

By alpineontrail

On June 8, 2022

In Journals

6/8/2022 – Appalachian Trail Lodge

It’s raining. And windy.

Numerous hikers headed for Katahdin this morning, waking at 5 AM and shuttling to Baxter State Park at 6 AM. A miserable day to climb.

Met Bandit from Germany this morning and conversed over coffee. Bandit completed the AT in 101 days (very fast!) after starting in late February. He is staying at the Appalachian Trail Lodge awaiting his flight back today to Germany. His feet are still sore a week and a half after finishing. Of course I asked him many questions, about the White Mountains, about Maine, about insects, etc. He usually prefaced answers with, “I don’t want to scare you . . .”

HOW (Hiker On Wheels) from north England stopped in to climb Katahdin, then prepared his bike for a 65 mile ride in the rain. I said “Wow”. He said, No big deal”. Said he wanted to bike into Manhattan. I told him about Susie and Bruce’s recent trip across New York State.

Pre-climb lunch: Pizza at Angelo’s. It smelled so good. I was hungry. Yesterday after 5 AM I’d eaten only a Wendy’s hamburger. However, the taste didn’t live up to the smell. Their House Special was on par with a frozen tombstone pizza briefly heated. Nevertheless, I ate the whole thing knowing this would be my only meal of the day.

The owner began talking weather with another customer. Supposed to rain through Wednesday next week he said. Today is Wednesday that meant a week straight. Must be sunny somewhere in the world he said.

Two elderly and somewhat confused women took a seat in the booth next to me. They ordered drinks and pizzas not on the menu from the owner. They asked the owner “where is the mall? “There is no mall” he replied. “I used to live here in 1971 she said. “Well it’s long gone” he said. After he left, One woman turned to me and asked what street is this? I’m new to this town – don’t know I replied, thinking that if I wasn’t new to this town, you wouldn’t find me in this restaurant. As I pulled out my credit card to pay the bill, the owner asked, how was everything? I felt like the mom in The movie elf, after elf served spaghetti he made then poured maple syrup all over it and asked how is it? “Yum I replied.

The butterflies are beginning to flutter in my tummy.s

Met Happy. She was shuttled from 45 miles into the 100 mile wilderness. She under-estimated her food and rationed but ran way too low on energy. Fortunately for her, another pair had stopped to call for a rescue. The father’s back hurt and he knew it wouldn’t get better. She approached them, and scored a ride into Millinocket. Happy said the streams are flowing. Someone said, it’s not too bad, only knee deep. Happy stands maybe 4‘10“. Their knee deep was her thigh deep. She said the 100 mile wilderness was rough and advised taking it slowly and carefully. She also said it was beautiful.

Fitbit taught the hiker workshop. Very helpful. I Recorded much of it. Gear shakedown went well.

I’ve been scatterbrained. Forgot to pack half my breakfasts (purchased meals at gear shop). Very nearly forgot to buy fuel canisters.

Have taken care of final preparations (I hope). Set up food drop. Reorganized gear to slack pack Katahdin.

No one takes Katahdin lightly. Even those who have climbed it multiple times. It’s a hard day.

Cody (an employee of ATL) said if you can summit Katahdin and get to Monson then you’re in a good position. The trail won’t throw anything at you that you haven’t seen. The rest is mental.

Things are about to get very real very soon.

(Update – Conditions we’re terrible on Katahdin today. Very low visibility and high winds above tree-line. Only 2 of 9 submitted. Many unexpectedly returned to the ATL – pretty soaked.

They were saying conditions may be as bad or worse tomorrow.)

Charlotte, NC to Millinocket, ME

By alpineontrail

On June 7, 2022

In Journals

6/7/2022 –

Rose at 3:15am, mind swirling with last minute preparations.

My wife was already up at 4:45am when I checked on her. Left close to planned time of 5am for the airport.

We parked. My wife entered the terminal with me – and good thing! Lines for check-in were extremely long, weaving the length of the floor. Extremely crowded! Lissa helped me check in, then navigated us to the long (but much shorter) TSA PreCheck line. Thanks Lu – you saved the day!

Both Lu and I had worked recent days relentlessly to finish that, for me, the reality of this moment hadn’t set in until Lu had to step out of line and watch. Then the tears welled.

No one could know for sure how long this adventure might last, but if all went well we knew it might last 6 months. That’s a long time to be away from those you love. Life would be very different in nearly every way. For both of us.

I spent most of my flight time refining notes that I’ll need for the journey. Especially “my Why”.

Walked about a mile with what is likely the heaviest pack I’ll carry in the next six months from the airport to the Concord Coach Lines bus station. Saw a couple of women carrying packs who appeared likely headed to the AT. The young man behind the counter asked as I ordered a bus ticket to Medway, “You doing the 100-Mile Wilderness or attempting the whole trail?” Guess folks like me, who buy a ride to Medway, are usually headed to the AT.

Bus ticket to Millinocket and the AT Trail Lodge

I somehow fit most contents in my bulky bag into my pack, including 10 days of food. Introduced myself to the two women (Tater Tot and Palette). Indeed they were headed to the AT, and to the Appalachian Trail Lodge. Palette was signed up for the Super SOBO Special and scheduled to start on June 9th ( my start date). Tater Tot was scheduled to start tomorrow. We talked about the rain expected on summit day, and how to decide whether to go for it or wait a day.

Folks trickled in during the afternoon also headed to Medway. Jesse planned to start a SOBO hike when the weather cleared – in the meantime he’d wait in Millinocket (the closest town to Baxter State Park). This was Bill’s 4th thru-hike attempt of the AT (with one success). He climbed Katahdin the prior three times but said weather made all the difference in terms of success and difficulty. Spoke highly of the AT Lodge.

Altogether 11 assembled for the Medway bus; all were also heading to the AT Lodge. Bill and Reboot had completed thru-hikes before. I asked why again. Reboot is obsessed with the trail and hikes each year. She owns Laughing Heart Hostel in Hot Springs, NC. Better is very sight challenged – sees maybe 10 feet tops. How he’ll climb Katahdin, much less pull off a thru-hike I can’t imagine, but he seems determined. We had a good discussion in the bus station.

Colin and Jack are climbing tomorrow. Rain is predicted. I asked how they felt about it. Jack was silent. Colin laughed.